STHLM, day 1

Spent three days in no longer so summery Stockholm last week.

Flew in on Wednesday morning, and departed early Friday afternoon. Moved the lodgings slightly – from Radisson Viking to Waterfront. Still conveniently close to Arlanda Express, but a definitely less weary hotel.

Perch @ Lisa Elmqvist
Perch @ Lisa Elmqvist

As per tradition, the first port of call was Lisa Elmqvist at Östermalmhallen. The seafood was plain exquisite, and the beer menu same as every year – short, but not at all without merit. St Erik’s IPA was an appropriately fruity accompaniment to a magnificent plate of perch fillets. Took a slight detour at the nearest Systembolaget, and picked up a couple of mainly domestic cans. Ad Libris offered plenty of reasonably priced recent books (including a stealthily published new Jo Nesbø novel), and thus muled a stack of hardbacks back to the hotel.

Nya Carnegiebrygget building
Nya Carnegiebrygget building
List of tanks at Nya Carnegiebrygget
Tanks at Nya Carnegie

After acquiring access to the room at the hotel there was not much time before the next leg: a tour at the Nya Carnegiebryggeriet. The trip across the bay on Emelie was pleasantly breezy and quick. The tour was in Swedish, and I must have missed quite a few of the inside jokes – but understood most of the presentation. No surprises (apart from the fact that Carnegie Porter is one of the oldest surviving trademarks in Sweden), brewing is brewing – no matter what the scale is, and at fifteenish tanks the brewery was definitely on the craft side of things. The attached tasting consisted of four very different beers. Kellerbier was immature, straight off a chilling tank. FrIPA and Passion Glow showcased the brewery’s range. The final beer was an unnamed and commercially unlaunched barley wine – easily the best in show: awash in brown sugar, plums and malts, this was a very worthy beer indeed.

Omnipollos Flora
Omnipollos Flora
Elsa and slushie cap
Elsa and slushie cap

A detour on the way back to the hotel took us to Omnipollo’s popup reastaurant in Humlegården. Omnipollos Flora served beer, soft ice cream and food. Opted for a good-sized octopus chunk and lobster rolls for a late dinner. The eight taps served mainly Omnipollo’s own, and quite a few of them were new: vanilla french toast version of Aon was expectedly sweet and dark, but Elsa (accompanied with a slushied cap) was a very fine example of a neither too sour, nor too sweet fruit beer.

FI: Tukholman ensimmäisen päivän anti koostui merenelävistä, kävelystä ja shoppailusta.

As imperial as it gets

Imperial Ginie
Imperial Ginie

Imperial – Borrowed from Old French imperial, from Latin imperiālis (“of the empire or emperor, imperial”), from imperium (“empire, imperial government”) + -ālis, from imperō (“command, order”), from im- (“form of in”) + parō (“prepare, arrange; intend”).

and specifically in the context of beer:

Imperial is a term until recently reserved for beers specially made for the crowned heads of Europe, but now borrowed by American craft brewers and made unfortunately vague. When used to describe beer, the word “imperial” is now becoming widely used to mean “stronger than usual.”

Some things would be better off unimperialized – as Põhjala’s Imperial Ginie, an “imperial gose” proves. Neither the north of 10 ABV nor aging in gin barrels has done this poor gose much good. Boozy, with a rotgut gin aftertaste and none of the genre’s low-key mineralness in the mix.

Imperial altbier was a tad better, though.

FI: Keisarillisuuden tavoittelu on mennyt ylettömyyksiin.

Ota Olut 2017

Spent a very enjoyable evening at the new local beerfest, Ota Olut in the Startup Sauna building in (obviously enough) Otaniemi.

While the environment was on the basic side, it turned out to be the most enjoyable festival of the year.

The weather was pleasantly balmy without being too hot. The crowd was friendly and thin enough to be comfortable. And the brewers had time to talk with visitors on account of a lack of queues.

Bugs & nuts
Bugs & nuts

Had a long chat with the Olarin Panimo guys, and tried out their non-Area-21 beers. Neither Esponator nor ESBO hit my taste nerves, but it was good to see that they are not sticking to the trendiest genres. And I’m really looking forward to being able to buy their wares in the shops following equipment expansion.

Neither Vibrant Forest’s or Anderson’s brews were that special. Apart from Danger Zone from the latter, it is the second strongest beer I’ve tasted so far. It was nowhere near as boozy as Sink the Bismarck, but at less than half the ABV that was only to be expected.

New England IPA was clearly the up and coming genre, with the obvious sours and IPAs very much holding the reins of power. Tuju’s Vermont Ravit was the finest example of NEIPA – hazy, juicy, very hoppy and packed with fruit. The eponymous Ota Olut NEIPA took the second prize.

The food vendors were fewer in number than in the capital festivals, but quality always trumps quantity. Naughty Burger’s blue cheese worked wonderfully with the hoppy IPAs, and Entocube’s crickets & nuts-offering was easy enough introduction into the eating bugs-trend.

FI: Otaniemen oiva olutfestivaali toimi mainiosti. Ja vallan yllättäen Lappeenrannasta tulee paras New England-tyylinen IPA.

Blast from the past

Fat Tire
Fat Tire

Picked up a can of New Belgium’s Fat Tire in Stockholm.

It’s been a good ten years since I last tasted it. While travelling on business in the pacific northwest, this was a beer that was pretty much universally available (even though the brewery is in Colorado).

Tastewise it was a pleasant re-acquintance – an amber ale with a bitter finish.

As the blog hasn’t exactly been swimming in new content, I figured a retrospective series on beers that have shaped me and my taste is in order. At some point. Do not hold your breaths waiting, it’s not healthy.

FI: Läskipyörän maku ennallaan, kitkeryydessään ei mikään helppo aloittelijan amberi.

Craft Beer Helsinki 2017

Following the unexpectedly succesful debut, I had high hopes for this year’s Craft Beer Helsinki.

CBH-2017
CBH-2017

The list of breweries included Omnipollo, whose products I’ve been quite righteously impressed.

However, their reputation turned out to have preceded them, and by Saturday they had ran out of all of the more extreme beers (i.e. only the more traditional IPAs were available). That simplified matters quite a bit, juggling several 12+ ABV sweet imperial stouts was not my idea of an ideal warm July day.

This time (like on quite a few events on Rautatientori) Radbrew was the first brewery after the entrance, but this year bravely skipped the post-apocalyptic ales and opted for something different. The first surprise about Jakobsland Brewers was that it was not from Jakobstad, but from Santiago de Compostela. Their two pale ales, Dumbstruck and Na Terra Dos Xigantes, turned out unevenly chilled, with the former at a closer to freezing temperature taking the top spot. A good start for the shindig indeed.

The Omnipollo stand, which, despite the shortage of dessert stouts, had pretty much the only queues of the day was easily skipped and so were the Brewdog (very pedestrian offerings) and Founders (likewise, no Mango Magnifinique available). Stone/Arrogant had inequal naming policy: Who You Callin’ Wussie was a very good modern pils, and Imperial Brown Ale delivered a plummy bomb that was not very brown.

Fat Lizard’s stand was the first domestic one sampled. Raspy Mary was highly hopped and a lot drier than expected (with the raspberry never coming out of hiding), Mu Isamaa was hopinatored, and on the warm side, so I’ll refrain from rating until a second encounter.

Mu Isamaa was a collaboration with Tanker. And a far better collaboration than the second one tasted: Silly Juice (co-produced with the usually very reliable Hiisi) was simply terrible – a saison overrun by berries. Had to resort to emptying the glass to a bin halfway down, the sweet and sour saison rubbed me the wrong way from the very start. Fortunately the second Tanker beer, Skeleton Force was a far better one: a piney IPA was a welcome relief after the berrymonster.

Malmgård had also succumbed to the sirens of sourness, and their Proto #14 was a disappointing wit that had some extra berriness in the mix.

8-bit Brewing, on the other hand, successfully atoned for the pretty terrible Ocarina of Lime with Mogul IPA, a very well-done west coaster.

I had never previously encountered United Gypsies, and both beers sampled from them were good indications that repeat visits would be required: Snake Charmer was a DIPA bursting with hoppy goodness and while my notes on Pohjoisen Jättiläinen are curiously empty I do recall it having been a seasonally somewhat inappropriate but well-done barley wine.

Following a miscalculation of funds on the charge card ended up queuing for a hamburger without the ability to purchase it. Instead of recharging said card opted for a couple of quick fills and a burger that could be eaten sitting down.

Käbliku Pruulikoda was a previously unencountered brewery, but both their sampled products proved that this relationship needs to be kindled to a far bigger flame. El Mosaico was a fruity IPA served mightily cold and Penumbra, their imperial stout ended up being the best in show despite being a dark and hefty imperial stout instead of anything seasonally more appropriate.

The last beer of the day was a Mufloni CCCP, the kid brother of the almighty CCCCC. By no means bad, but lacks the heft of the original.

My high hopes were mostly fulfilled, the beer selection was good, organization smooth, and all in all this was, again, just the thing to kick off the summer holidays with.

Looking forward to a repeat performance in 2018!

FI: Onnistuneet kyöstit tälläkin kertaa, Omnipollon erikoisuuksien missaaminen harmitti hetken, mutta IPAisella terapialla olo parani oitis.

Accidental tap takeover participation

De Molen logo
De Molen logo
Had a very very late lunch downtown (following a surprisingly long meeting).

Opted to try out Sori Taproom again, even though the official lunch hour was way past. Turned out that today was a special day indeed, with a heavily curtailed menu. Fortunately burgers were on (though fries were not). This arrangement was on account of the first Brewer’s Dinner in the evening, with an aligned tap takeover by Brouwerij de Molen.

Sampled two &-beers.

Heksen & Trollen was a very good companion to the burger, a crisp and even bitterish saison.

Bommen & Granaten, on the other hand, was a dessert and my first barley wine off a tap in a long long while. Very plummy, but only moderately sweet – with the alcohol conveniently hidden by the stony fruits, malts and hopping.

FI: Vahinko-osallistuminen hananvaltaukseen jäi kahteen maistettuun olueen. Molemmat hyviä, mutteivät mitenkään maailmaa mullistavia.

Cloud Hopper

Mikkeller's Cloud Hopper
Mikkeller’s Cloud Hopper

Even on a 55 minute flight there’s time for a beer. Especially when said beer is Cloud Hopper, a Mikkeller exclusive only available on SAS flights.

Even though the basic american pale ale is not that special, it’s head and shoulders above the beers commonly available.

Though I do have a vague recollection of something wonderful being served by Alaska Airlines on the short parabolic hop between Seattle and Portland in the early noughties. But the memory is hazy (might have been a Fat Tire) and accompanied by a recollection of candied popcorn served alongside.

FI: Pakollinen olutostos lyhyellä hypyllä Tukholmaan (kun ei tätä muualta saa kuin ilmasta)

Suuret Oluet Pienet Panimot 2016

August brings the perennial SOPP-festival to Helsinki. This time around it was intriguing to see whether they had taken any clues from the inaugural Craft Beer Helsinki.

Glass size was still unoptimal for tasting, so that’s strike one.

Food was still in the cheap and nasty-category, so that’s strike two.

Maistila menu, SOPP 2016
Maistila menu, SOPP 2016

Beer selection, on the other hand, was wide (even though dropping by late in the course meant that some of the most limited editions were long gone).

  • Started off with a Radbrew (or three) Lizard on a Stick is a proof that even two reliable breweries can miscollaborate as the product was a very mediocre pale ale.
  • Teapot did not fare much better, though interestingly the fruit infusion transforms the taste from an english ale to an american one.
  • Wasteland Oasis remains persistently good – a refreshing hereweizen.
  • Kaskenmäen panimo is a new acquintance, their WhALE (wheat ale) started off well, but all of a sudden hit a funky sidenote in the taste.
  • Saimaan Blue Skies ran out and got a free taster: hops and berries, but hardly a lasting impression from a quarter deciliter.
  • Olarin Panimo’s Neljän Viljan IPA is the grainiest IPA in a long while, and proves that the brewery has more to it than just west coast ales.
  • Maku’s celebration of the Seven Brothers as a series of beers has reached Timo, a bitter saison.
  • Mufloni Barley Wine continued the more bitter than expected-path, not bad by any means, but I prefer mine a bit sweeter or at least smoother.
  • Ukko-Pekka was the first rauchbier of the day, a steal at 1€. Far better than what Nokia commonly ships to the stores.
  • Mother Fuggle, as a contrast to the bitter beers encountered earlir was more watery than properly bitter.
  • Hiisi had run out a few of their more peculiar wares, Konttorirutto #3 Hoppy Sour Ale was indeed sour and hoppy, but sweet as opposed to acidic, a pleasant first sour for the day.
  • Hati on the other hand was a collection of somewhat connected tastes that oddly managed to be better than its parts.
  • Ruosniemi had no barrel-aged treasures left, but twin varieties of Lomittaja Chardonnay and Karviaismarja were pleasant versions of the original saison.
  • Bock’s Corner had an unauspicious debut, their Pale Ale turned out watery and limp (after the taste explosions of the previous four the bar was set uncomfortably high for a very traditional pale ale).
  • Maistila’s Det var Det was a very fine wit indeed – with just enough spicing in the taste to differ from the norm.
  • Their Jälkipeli worked well, too. Even though a fruit-infused saison sounds like an abomination, the combination was pleasantly sweet and refreshing simultaneously.
  • Sonnisaari’s Pseudovehnä gets a firm grasp on the “hoppiest wheat”-prize.
  • The sole non-domestic beer was actually the best one sampled: Låven’s Norwegian Smoked Porter was deep, dark and smoky – a winning combination on an evening turning to chill.

FI: Sangen onnistunut festivaali tänäkin vuonna, ja jälleen kerran ykköspalkinto karkasi ulkomaille.

Turku

Spent the weekend in Turku.

On they way stopped in Lohja, since it seems to be the sole place to pick up Paloaseman Panimo‘s beers.

After a very swedish birthday dinner took in the sights of the town.

Turku Brewdog wall of collateral
Turku Brewdog wall of collateral

The first step was Koulu, whose bier garten was the finest of the summer so far, a lot bigger than I remembered. Too bad they only had a few of their own beers available, and the queues were bordering on the ridiculously long. Both their wheat and the appropriately named Kakolan Kalpea pale ale were smooth, and happily enough the large crowds were interested in the house beers rather than the the true mainstream alternatives.

Turku got a Brewdog establishment quite unexpectedly, and as a shareholder had to inspect the grounds. Smallish, very dark and with a shorter list of taps than the in Helsinki. Raspberry Blitz was (once again) too sour for me, but Amager’s Fru Fredriksen was a swell stout indeed (and a good preparation for the thirty minute walk back to the HQ). Tasting both herr and fru Fredriksen side by side is definitely a project to try out at some point.

FI: Turusta löytyi paikallistakin olutta. Ja kesän komein terassi.

Turku 2016
Turku 2016

2nd tap takeover

The second participation in a tap takeover happened on a (very long overdue) first visit to Stadin Panimo in Suvilahti.

My failure to appreciate the ultra sour selection was not that much of a surprise, but failing to be impressed by the house selection was.

Alvinne tap takeover @ Stadin Panimo
Alvinne tap takeover @ Stadin Panimo

Of the four of Stadin Panimo’s own beers none rose above mediocrity.

And of the Alvinne crop, Sigma I actually had problems downing half a taster, the rest (Mad Tom, Kerasus and Phi) were mercifully less acidic. No matter how trendy the sours might be, I’m having a hard time even tolerating some of them.

FI: “Happamia” sanoi kettu Alvinnen oluista.

Suvilahti
Suvilahti

Craft Beer Helsinki 2016

Craft Beer Helsinki 2016
Craft Beer Helsinki 2016

I had my doubts on the brand new beer festival. Having been disappointed by many a shindig, my expectations were low.

But I was happily proven wrong.

The inaugural Craft Beer Helsinki exceeded expectations on most fronts, and proved that perennial SOPP has a lot of room for improvement: the small glasses were excellent in maximizing the tastings, the food was far better than the norm, and the cashless payments worked out surprisingly well.

There was twenty-ish breweries present. A lot of them domestic, but plenty of international guests as well.

Without further ado, a short but sweet review on the lot:

  • Radbrew’s Ranger was a basic pale ale, good to get things started, but by no means anything special.
  • The second Radbrew was something of a disappointment as well: Plumbbob, the first Fat IPA sighted never reached the promised heights of sweetness.
  • Area 21 Saison is the first beer I’ve tasted from Olarin Panimo, a pleasantly wheaty saison is a fine debut indeed (their stand had run out of a couple of more interesting choices).
  • Videogame-inspired Ocarina of Lime was a real disappointment – there was no hops or maltiness to offset the pungent acidity.
  • Mila brewery had changed their name to a more generic Vallilan Panimo, but the change hadn’t affected the wares as Vallila Amber turned out to be a balanced take on amber lager.
  • Founders’ Mango Magnifico raised quite a bit of doubts, I’ve never been much of a mango man, and chili is hard to get right in beer. But I was again proven wrong – this is indeed a magnificent beer that starts off sweet and easy and quickly crescendoes into palate-melting habanero attack in the aftertaste.
  • Bourbon Barrel-Aged Arrogant Bastard didn’t agree with me: too spiky and haunted by an odd cassis-y sidetaste, I was glad it was only a deciliter.
  • Sori’s Öökull was likely a victim of circumstances, after a couple of hefty beers the balanced pale ale just left a very shallow impression. Bonus points for forcing a belgian brewery to utilize umlauts in the name.
  • Founders Nitro Pale Ale was probably the first non-canned-irish-stout nitrogen-infused beer. The mouthfeel was a bit thicker, but that’s impossible to attribute on the added gas alone.
  • Tanker’s Animal Instict was the second wild IPA in a week. And like Bruxellensis Lupus the combination of wild yeast and american hops proved a winner.
  • Lehe’s Kazbek was a more traditional IPA, but nonetheless packed with enough fruit to be likeable.
  • Ogar Polski is the first grätzer/grodziskie I’ve sampled. Some smoke, some wheat, with chalky minerals thrown in the taste.
  • Letra A was the only pure wheat beer tasted. Refreshing and light – devoid of the traditional estery character.
  • The last beer of the evening was Hiisi’s Black Bretty, the second wild IPA of the day. The smooth black IPA takes an unexpected twist from the belgian yeast.

Best in show: Mango Magnifico (sadly not available generally, should have had a second glass).

Pluses: Sampled pulled oats and was moderately impressed (nice texture, taste masked by the hefty BBQ-sauce).

Minuses: Nothing special on Brewdog’s stand.

FI: Oikein mainiot festarit. Odotukset korkealle ensi kesän tilaisuuteen.

Black Bretty
Black Bretty

First tap takeover

The five beers of La Quince
The five beers of La Quince

Ahead of the brand new Craft Beer Helsinki 2016 festival one of the participating breweries, La Quince, organized a tap takeover at Brewdog Helsinki.

Tasted several of their brews (Hop Fiction, Llipa!, 15 hours session IPA: Ahtanum and Evil is in a Midnight Mash), and while apart from the 15 hour wonder all were decent, none of them was truly spectacular.

FI: Hanainkaappaus jäi vaisuksi, eikä ainoastaan yleisömäärältään.

Hop Fiction
Hop Fiction

Brewdog tasting, 2nd take

Participated in another full house tasting at Brewdog Helsinki.

The topic of the evening was Big Beers, and we certainly got what we deserved.

Sampled the best band beer thus far before the show got started. I’m not that big a fan of Turmion Kätilöt, but their Pimeyden Morsian exceeded expectations by a long mile: a roasty and deeply chocolate-y stout was something far beyond the usual limp lager with a band emblem attached.

The first beer offered was Baladin’s Elixir, a belgian dark ale. Low on sugars and smoke, high on malts, almost devoid of carbonation. A hefty and dark start on a warm and summery evening.

The deeply belgian theme continued with the second beer: Rodenbach’s Vintage 2013 (Barrel No. 149), a funky flanders red ale that brought forward a taste of red currants in its sour taste.

The third beer was one I had high hopes on: Mikkeller’s Recipe 1000 Sauternes. But despite its lofty provenance (I like big dessert wines, too) and uplifting bouquet, the taste failed to deliver on the promise. Plummy and far sourer than sweet.

The penultimate beer was the highlight of the evening: Alaskan Brewing Company’s Smoked Porter (2012 vintage). Packed with smoke and salt, this is one of the few rauchbiers that credibly challenges the masters of Bamberg. As the glass warmed up, the taste thickened – clearly this is a beer that would provide a good foundation to a cellar, and according to grapevine, the domestic beer monopoly had a line on a shipment later in the summer.

The last beer of the tasting was the sole exemplar from the hosts. Brewdog’s collaboration with Ballast Point Ship Wreck is the first mescal beer tasted. It continues on the smoky path begun in Alaska, but treads its own piney way towards a flash of tequila in the taste.

Shipwreck
Shipwreck

Also sampled:

  • Velvets are Blue, sourest saison thus far.
  • Saison d’etre, a very traditional saison in comparison.
  • Polaren Putte, a rhubarb gose is not an everyday encounter, and happily the rhubarb was indeed strong in the taste.
  • Rivo, a plain dry pils seemed lacklustre after the series of taste explosions.
  • Little Bichos Bicho In My Beer, the last beer of the evening returned to the realm of peculiar – a black saison tweaked with yuzu and lemongrass was a refreshing cap to a long evening.

FI: Tymäkän belgialais-savuinen maisteluilta Brewdogissa.

Meeting Muddis

Muddis logo
Muddis logo
On account of rather severe overloading of last weekend, skipped the Helsinki Beer Expo, and spent an afternoon in the book/food/wine-expo instead.

Didn’t expect anything beer-related in Pasila, but Estonian Muddis Brewery served three beers on their stand.

Their golden ale was a decent, but very much basic example of the genre, but the IPA and Saison fared better. The IPA was low in bitterness, but had decent hopping nonetheless, and the saison benefited from a higer than usual ABV.

The beers were served in about a deciliter glass, and both the ale and the saison do merit further investigation. Hadn’t encountered the brewery previously, but according to the representatives the beers should be “easily available” south of the bay.

And yeah, I’m now 0-for-3 in the beer expo, a sad state of affairs that needs to be taken care of with better planning next year.

FI: Vallan OK uusi virolaispanimo, maistiaiset Viinimessuilla säälittävän pieniä, joten pitää tutustua uudemman kerran.

Herkkujen Suomi / Syystober

Herkkujen Suomi
Herkkujen Suomi

Herkkujen Suomi, the annual end-of-the-summer occasion of hawking domestic food has recently attached a conspicuous beer-appendix to itself.

Sadly the show itself has gone downhill, as the small producers get crowded out by food stalls. This year big chunks of the nation went unrepresented. The gravest loss was Kainuu, as the mighty tar bread produced by Pekka Heikkinen’s bakery was shockingly not available. Also missing in action: rönttöset, proper rieska and non-industrial cinnamon buns.

Sampled a pair of beers over a warm Thursday lunch alongside pulled pork burgers (which seems to be the sushi of the latter half of decade, so rapid has its ascent in popularity been). Pyynikki’s Vanilla Stout was the better of the two, even if its hefty dark warmth was quite out of place on a sunny day. Laitila’s Wasaborg, a smoked wheat beer, was more appropriate but as the common complaint goes “not smoky enough”. The former reinvigorated my interest in Papabeers (which I’d happily forgotten about) and I’ll keep an eye out for the latter as well for a more autumny second encounter.

FI: Makujen Suomi heikkenee vuosi vuodelta kun muikkukauppiaat vievät tilan. Lounasoluet turhan tummia hienoon myöhäiskesän päivään.